Just a few hours away from the royal chaos of Jaipur lies a hidden gem that many travelers still overlook — Mandawa. Known as the “Open-Air Art Gallery of Rajasthan,” this small town in the Shekhawati region is famous for its beautifully painted havelis, intricate frescoes, and old-world charm.
A day trip from Jaipur to Mandawa is like traveling back in time — to an era when rich merchants built palaces filled with stories, art, and color. Whether you love history, photography, or quiet villages, Mandawa is a perfect escape into Rajasthan’s artistic heart.
1. Where Is Mandawa?
Mandawa is located about 170 kilometers north of Jaipur, in the Jhunjhunu district of Rajasthan. It sits in the Shekhawati region, a semi-arid area once part of the old caravan trade route that connected Delhi and Bikaner.
The town was founded in the 18th century by Thakur Nawal Singh, a Rajput ruler of the Nawalgarh state. Wealthy merchants traveling between India and Central Asia stopped here to rest, trade, and eventually settled, building grand mansions — the havelis — decorated with magnificent wall paintings.
2. Getting from Jaipur to Mandawa
The drive from Jaipur to Mandawa takes around 3.5 to 4 hours, depending on traffic. The road (NH52 and NH11) is mostly good, passing through small towns, fields, and desert landscapes.
You can visit Mandawa in one day, but it’s best to start early, around 7:00 AM, to make the most of your time.
Options to reach Mandawa:
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Private car with driver: The most comfortable way. You can stop anywhere along the route for tea or photos.
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Taxi or cab service: Easily available in Jaipur.
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Bus: Regular state buses connect Jaipur to Jhunjhunu, and from there, a short local ride takes you to Mandawa.
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Guided tours: Many travel agencies in Jaipur offer organized one-day or overnight tours to Mandawa, including guide and lunch.
3. First Impressions of Mandawa
As you enter Mandawa, the first thing you notice is its calm and timeless atmosphere. The noise of Jaipur fades away, replaced by narrow streets, old gates, and colorful walls. Cows rest under shade, children play with kites, and artisans work slowly in the sun.
The entire town feels like a museum without walls — every building, every doorway, and every mural tells a story. The faded beauty of the place gives it a poetic charm, as if time has paused for centuries.
4. A Walk Through History – The Havelis of Mandawa
The real attraction of Mandawa lies in its havelis — grand merchant houses covered in frescoes. Between the 18th and 19th centuries, wealthy Marwari traders who made fortunes in Bombay and Calcutta built these mansions in their hometowns to display their success and devotion.
The walls, ceilings, and even doors were painted with mythological themes, royal processions, and scenes from daily life. Over time, the painters began including modern inventions of the era — steam trains, gramophones, and even the British Raj.
Walking through the lanes of Mandawa is like exploring a living art gallery. Each haveli has its own character and charm.
Hanuman Prasad Goenka Haveli
One of the most famous havelis in town, this mansion features vivid frescoes of Lord Shiva on Nandi, Indra on his elephant, and other gods. The fine brushwork and natural colors used more than a century ago still remain bright and captivating.
Murmuria Haveli
Built by a rich merchant family, this haveli combines traditional Rajasthani architecture with European influences. It’s famous for a mural of India’s first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, riding a white horse while holding the Indian flag — a surprising modern touch in such an old town.
Jhunjhunwala Haveli
Known for its mirror work and gold-painted rooms, this haveli gives a glimpse of how luxurious the homes of Shekhawati merchants once were. The artwork here includes scenes of gods, elephants, and royal hunting parties.
Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli
This one stands out for its delicate erotic frescoes, painted in a style similar to ancient Indian miniature art. Though slightly faded, they reveal the creativity and openness of artists from that time.
Chokhani Double Haveli
Built by two brothers, this twin haveli has a grand façade with arches, balconies, and lattice windows. It’s one of the best-preserved buildings in Mandawa.
As you explore, you’ll often meet local families still living in some of these homes. They are friendly and may invite you in for chai — a wonderful chance to hear stories passed down through generations.
5. Mandawa Fort – The Heart of the Town
At the center of Mandawa stands the Mandawa Fort, built in the mid-18th century by Thakur Nawal Singh, the town’s founder. The fort was both a residence and a defense post, guarding trade routes across the desert.
The entrance is impressive, decorated with carved arches and frescoed gateways. Inside, you’ll find courtyards, balconies, and painted ceilings showing mythological scenes and royal portraits. The fort’s location on a small hill offers lovely views of the town and surrounding desert.
Today, the fort has been converted into a heritage hotel, known as Castle Mandawa. Visitors can walk through the open courtyards, enjoy a cup of tea in its restaurant, or even spend a night here for a royal experience.
6. Art, Colors, and Culture
What makes Mandawa truly special is not just its buildings, but the artistic spirit that fills the air. Every wall seems to have a story. The frescoes were once painted using natural colors made from flowers, minerals, and cow dung — which is why many have lasted for hundreds of years.
The themes are wonderfully diverse:
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Hindu gods and goddesses like Krishna, Rama, and Shiva.
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Mughal emperors, royal processions, and warriors.
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Everyday life, with scenes of women drawing water, musicians playing instruments, and traders at work.
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Later frescoes even show trains, clocks, and British soldiers, showing how the local artists adapted to modern times.
As you walk through the lanes, look for details — a painted elephant hidden behind a gate, a balcony with tiny carved faces, or a wall where a modern motorcar is drawn next to a royal chariot.
7. Lunch and Local Experiences
By midday, the desert sun can get strong, so it’s nice to take a break for lunch. Several heritage hotels and cafes in Mandawa serve traditional Rajasthani food.
Try dishes like:
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Dal Baati Churma – roasted wheat balls with lentils and sweet crushed wheat.
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Ker Sangri – a tangy local bean and berry dish.
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Gatte Ki Sabzi – chickpea dumplings in yogurt curry.
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Makki Ki Roti with spicy chutneys.
If you prefer something lighter, many cafes serve Indian thalis, vegetarian curries, or simple chapatis with vegetables.
After lunch, you can visit a local art workshop. Some families still practice the traditional fresco painting technique and are happy to show you how they make natural colors from plants and stones. Buying a small handmade painting or miniature souvenir supports local artisans.
8. Exploring Beyond Mandawa
If time allows, you can explore nearby villages of the Shekhawati region, like Nawalgarh, Dundlod, or Fatehpur, which are also filled with painted havelis and forts. Each town has its own style of art and architecture.
Dundlod has a beautiful fort and horse stables where you can see the famous Marwari horses with curved ears. Nawalgarh, often called the “Heart of Shekhawati,” has some of the best-preserved frescoes in Rajasthan.
9. Photography Tips
Mandawa is a dream for photographers. The combination of color, texture, and heritage offers endless possibilities.
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Visit early morning or late afternoon for the best light.
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Ask permission before photographing people or private homes.
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Use wide-angle lenses to capture the interiors of havelis.
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Don’t rush — sometimes the most beautiful moments are simple ones: a child running past a painted wall or sunlight falling through a carved window.
10. Return to Jaipur
After a full day of exploration, start your return drive to Jaipur in the late afternoon. The desert sunsets are spectacular — golden light bathing the fields and villages along the road. You’ll likely reach Jaipur by evening, with a camera full of photos and a heart full of color.
11. Practical Tips for a Mandawa Day Trip
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Distance: 170 km from Jaipur (about 4 hours one way).
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Best season: October to March, when the weather is cool and pleasant.
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What to wear: Light cotton clothes, comfortable shoes, hat, and sunscreen.
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Language: Hindi and Marwari are spoken, but basic English is understood by most locals.
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Entrance fees: Most havelis charge a small fee (₹50–100). Hiring a local guide (₹300–500) is worth it for detailed explanations.
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Cash: Carry some cash, as many small places don’t accept cards.
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Respect: Some frescoes are on private property; always ask before entering.
12. Why Mandawa Is Worth the Journey
Mandawa may be small, but it holds the soul of Rajasthan in its lanes. The faded murals, quiet streets, and proud history give it a special charm that modern cities can never recreate. It’s a place where art and life merge — where even the walls speak.
A day in Mandawa lets you see a different side of Rajasthan — less royal, more intimate, and deeply human. You won’t find grand palaces or busy crowds, but you will find stories — painted in color, preserved in dust, and remembered by generations.
When you return to Jaipur at night, the bright lights of the city will feel different. You will have seen another shade of Rajasthan — one painted in gold, red, and blue — and it will stay in your memory long after your trip ends.
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